Sunday, August 12, 2007

being.....back

I can't say that stepping onto American soil was the best thing I've done this year, but rather enjoyed stepping OFF American soil much more.

I was greeted by twangy Houston-ites at the airport July 23.

I MISS speaking Spanish to get what I need and go where I need to go.

I think about the amazing stories, adventures, milestones, people, food and lifestyle I lived and grew while I was there and I am teary to think it could be another year or more before I get to return.

Teaching is much much easier your second year. I would hear this mantra repeated by many veteran teachers over the previous year, but all I could think was: "please, shut up." Turns out they were right....oops.

I feel caught "in between" my life stages. I'm surrounded by many who are ready to marry and even planning to do so...but I cannot seem to find a person to sit and have dinner with for 2 hours. What's up with that!?

I have kept up my vegetarian diet and love it. I eat beans and rice 6 days a week and would be glad to share the recipe.

I'm glad to be home with my family.

I'm ready for the next stage of life...to begin it, to embrace it and to figure it out...or just to survive it.


Dear Corinne,
If you still read this...you'll never truly know how much you affected my life in guatemala. Thank you for your honesty, your amazing-ness and your ability to change the world...starting with me. I miss you and wish you peace and good health in Guatemala. Take care of yourself and send my love to Santos and Lydia.
K

Monday, July 16, 2007

What goes up....must come down.

Haven´t blogged, emailed, or chatted with folks at home for some time now and was getting an itch to do so. I had a busy weekend, keeping myself with some ¨typical¨ Xela activities.

Friday: Let me backtrack....on Wednesday I inquired about a hike up the Santa Maria Volcano, the 2nd highest peak in Central America. The guides told me I needed at least 2 people and I only had myself as most of my friends have returned to the States or are otherwise occupied with ¨fish-like¨ activities in Utila, Honduras....and Corinne has climbed it 4 weeks before with Ben. I checked back later that day and found that 2 other girls from another school were intersted and thus a group to go on Friday was born. Thursday I paid and went to the nearest grocery store and outside market for water, fruit and granola-ish type things to eat on my way up the volcano.

Back to Friday: I was told to report to the tour site at 5 a.m. at which point it is still pitch black out and surprisingly people in the street. I was completely freaked out, not to mention hung over. I forgot to mention that Corinne and I went to the Quetzaltrekkers event party at a club in Xela. All the proceeds go the school we work at and it had an ¨under the sea¨ theme. The drinks were cheap and we met some really great people. We left the party and headed for tecun were we had more rum and drinks and headed for much needed sleep around 11 (that´s late for here!). I woke up almost every hour thinking I had missed my alarm and the trip. Left my bed at 4:45 and headed to the site. NO ONE WAS THERE and so I curled up on the step trying not to be the only blonde, white girl in the middle of the street at 5 a.m. A car slowly stopped in front around 5:20, where a guy rolled down his window and asked if I wanted to get in his car cause it was warmer...I freaked and walked away...only to have the guy yell at me that the other girls going up Santa Maria were in the car...in Spanish. I asked for the girls to say something and they replied that they did exist and were in the car. I abliged seeing as how it was 50 degrees out and dark. The girls were both from Ireland and had only been in Xela for a week. Both are primary teachers and learning Spanish.

A shortwhile later another car carrying 2 more hikers came and we all piled in the jeep, this time to the volcano. One was from New York and the other from Scotland, and also the 2 girls who signed up with me on Wednesday to go. We got to the trailhead around 5:30-40ish and began pretty quickly. The pace was nice and the conversation was awesome. Fiona (the Scottish girl) was a social worker and Carol (from New York) was a med. student in NY and was leaving on Saturday to work in an AIDS clinic in the capital city. What are the odds?? All people that have professions that are somehow connected deeply to my own interests...and we were all hiking the volcano together.

After 30 or 40 minutes we took a short break, but the weather was cold and windy and it was better to keep moving. The higher we went the slower I went as I got altitude sickness pretty quickly. I took some Advil and it got rid of the altitude sickness pretty quickly, but I found that keeping a slow pace was better for me. Fiona and I stuck together most of the way and later Cora (teacher from Ireland), stayed with us. The beginning, the hike is beautiful, with corn farms and trees and amazing landscape. The further up we go, the steeper it is and literally my face is flush with the ground and I´m grabbing tree roots to keep from falling back!? Enter: HELL. Much further, about 3 hours later, Fiona, Cora and I are left without a guide as he is with the other 2. We´re sort of making our own trails on the volcano, but am having a really difficult time even seeing 10 ft above because we´re in a rainstorm in the clouds. The wind is blowing 30 mph and the weather is at least 30 degrees...and I have a small jacket on, with not much else to help. When we finally reach them, I´m literally almost in tears for feeling lost for an hour and asked the guide to go slowly with us up to the top. He abliged and we made it to the top after 3.5 hours. Thinking that once we were at the top we would of course have wind, but maybe not the cold....nope. Still 30 degrees and miserable. We couldn´t see ANYTHING, much less 10 ft. in front of us. Took a group picture, tried to thaw out my hands with toilet paper that the guide gave me (didn´t work...who would´ve guessed) and we split.

Down the mountain: Surprisingly 10 times as hard as going UP the mountain. Our bodies were dominoes, in which one of us would slide on loose gravel taking out 2 or 3 others. Insanity...and I paid to do it. It actually took us LONGER to come down that it had going up. Every time we would round a corner, we would see the town at the same height level we had seen only an hour before. It seemed we were not descending, just walking in circles and sliding on our asses. When we finally did make it down, we hopped in the jeep and headed for home. I saw beautiful sights, spent most of my day ABOVE the cloud line, but am not sure I would actually recommend the experience to ...anyone. I can say, now that I´m safely on the ground and only sore after 3 days, that the experience was one you ¨have to have¨ when you come to Guatemala, but actually, I think I would have been just as happy with Xela had I stayed on the ground. It was cold, windy as hell and I spent most of the time with my face in the dirt, but the incline was so steep. Yay.

Saturday: I went to Fuentes Georginas (natural hotsprings) in Zunil, which is a small town outside of Xela. Corinne and I took the chicken bus and it was a pretty day. One of the best parts is getting to ride in the back of the ¨pick-up¨ and see the views of the town on the way up. It becomes like a rainforest pretty quickly and is green and lush. The springs are naturally heated (by another volcano I think??) and open to anyone who pays the admission fee. For Q20, there are 3 different naturally heated pools for people to enjoy. Awesome. However, I must note, that these are natural, therefore there are no systems by which to filter the springs...which was something I was constantly thinking about while swimming. Lots o´people, who, from what it looked like, taking the opportunity to bathe for the first time that week, while others, looked like they come most days during the week. We met an incredibly nice person, a teacher from a nearby pueblo that help Corinne and I with our Spanish. I enjoyed our conversations with him immensely, and then we met an incredibly annoying person from the States (new york...another teacher), who spoke Spanish very quickly and I couldn´t understand a word he was say, and not for my lack of abilities as the teacher later told me he couldn´t understand him as well. He shouted when he talked and he had very little social abilities, like chewing and drinking with his mouth closed. He, however, was the key to Corinne and I getting a cheaper ride down. With just the 2 of us, the pick-up would have been more expensive, but with the annoying guy, it was to be cheaper...until the incredibly nice teacher offered us a ride...all the way to Xela!! Save for the annoying guy in the back seat, I had a good time talking with the teacher (he helped with my grammar). We gave him a donation for the ride and said our good-byes...to both.

We hung out, completely relaxed from the hot springs, in the park, until creepy Bible man came and disrupted the events. He claimed to be spreading the word, but what he was spreading was his hands and it was not so appreciated. After he asked for my address, Corinne thankfully, said we had to go...thankfully. We walked some more and agreed to meet up later for drinks, which we did at Tecun.

Sunday: Corinne and I went to Xela Community Church and both agreed that the sermon (most of it) had a good message and it was filled with interesting people from around the world. The service was in Spanish and English, but the pastors all from the States. We are definitely returning next weekend.

The final South American Soccer Cup was supposed to be on at 3 p.m. I made plans to watch solo at Tecun, while Corinne made plans to watch Harry Potter at the super mall (which I hate). I got awesome food at Tecun and read before the game came on. I chatted with the servers about who would win and the place filled up pretty quickly. Because I sat at a table for 4 by myself, that welcomed all types of people, but only Wilco, from Holland to note. He was nice and friendly and we discussed where we come from, where we´re going and watched the game. He was once the U.N. reprepsentative for the Netherlands in the U.S. for 6 months and he had many opinions about our country, most of which I agreed with. After Argentina suffered a huge loss against Brazil (damn!!), we went for coffee to further discuss the Latin American trade systems and relations with the U.S. Corinne joined us shortly after and we had an awesome discussion ranging from women´s rights to 2-party systems in the U.S. vs. Socialist government systems in Holland. Because Corinne and I were starving we went to the taco place..had 3 tacos for Q10 and headed back to Tecun for some chocolate pura. There, we met a woman and her husband (she was Guatemalteca and he was German...and they both lived in South Beach, FL), who asked us to take a picture and from there launched a 4 hour discussion about EVERYTHING. I now have a permanat place to stay (for free) in South Beach, and ¨get trashed¨ as she put it. Corinne and Andreas (the German) were having a heated discussion about immigration in Germany, while Claudia (the Guatemalan) and I were talking about her funding my AIDS non-profit....seriously a great weekend for meeting new people.

Today was uneventful as I seriously have done nothing but work with the kids in the afternoon. There were not many after the extra classes (16 total) and many (10) adults, therefore, I left after their break time! Now, I´m here, but am leaving to call home to folks and make plans for my return, in 6 days. I am starting to look forward, more and more, to my trip and home and to see everyone I miss so dearly. There are 2 more students that have joined the house and I anticipate it being busy at dinner. Also, my host brother has bought a brand-new beagle puppy that is only 2 months old. Essentially, the thing is so cute I want to squeeze it until it´s head pops off.

Also, I haven´t been very diligent about returning emails and to those of you who have sent one, and read this, please accept my apologies and be looking for your responses tomorrow! Much love and peace...and see you soon.

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

12 to go...

I have 12 days left in Guatemala and the more I´m hearing from friends who have already returned the more hesitant I am to return myself. Such descriptions as: restritive, boring, uneventful and HOT keeping coming up in emails and posts online...who wants to go back to that?

Here, I can freely ride in a minivan cramped with 25 people for $.20.

Here, I can eat from Xela Pan just about any minute of the day for less that $.50 and it is so so good.

Here, random people, whom I don´t even know their names, hand me food out of their windows that they´ve prepared in their kitchens...again, for less than a $1.

Here, I can hike volcanoes.

Here, I am greeted by just about every single person on the street, whether friendly or slightly weird...I´m still greeted.

Here, I can live and survive knowing conversational Spanish.

Here, I can have wild, rabid dogs chase me on the weekends.

Here, life is slow and sweet, where everyone can Salsa dance, eat picante till their blue in the face only to ask for more, where the food is ALWAYS fresh and the people (well...most of them) would give you their shirts on their backs to help out...

But...Xela doesn´t have good BBQ sauce and doesn´t have hot wings...that I will eat....therefore, I must return to the States to fix my cravings only to return another summer to do it al over again.



I had a relatively uneventful day yesterday..finished City of God, but am not going to see the movie as the book was enough violence for my imagination and I couldn´t imagine seeing it. I recommend the book to anyone and everyone. There were far fewer kids yesterday and my guess was it was due to the ¨discussion¨ the director, Guadalupe, had with the kids about stealing from us volunteers. As it turns out, 15-20Q per day has been stolen from various volunteers out of wallets and bags. Very little students have access to these as we diligently lock them up, therefore, giving suspicions to some of the older students who ¨help¨ out with the younger generations. The kids played dress-up of all sorts and we painted their faces as anything from the Devil to a butterfly. They loved it. After their faces were nicely covered, they turned to us and asked to paint ours. Karen covered my entire face in individual desigs ranging from tiger-stripes to flowers....someday those pictures will surface. Afterward...hung out with Corinne, who has taken to start helping the school in the morning and working and studying elsewhere in the afternoons...flipping our schedules. We usually meet up now after ¨work,¨ chat and make plans, if any, for the night. Tonight: Kokoloko´s. This ridiculous bar that has a reputation for gunfire, good drink specials and salsa. Should be fun, right?

I realized my feelings towards being a teacher and my students have changed dramatically. For most of the year, I had a feeling that these kids were headed in directions that wouldn´t help them in the future. They (or so I thought) have very little respect for teachers and appreciate very little the education they are receiving. Yeah, they were good kids, but for the most part, admittedly, they bugged the hell out of me. Now, after working with all types of kids both here and there, I have so much more appreciation for having a job, working with kids who actually do care (I completely ignored it) and have more respect for their teachers than most. I am actually, for the first time...ever, looking forward to teaching them again and hope to do it bigger and better this time around. The kids here have motivated me for the kids back home.

Ummmm....my bumming in the mornings has not gotten old yet and I hope it never does. I plan to hike the volano this friday and Corinne and I are headed to the hotsprings on Saturday and Sunday, I plan to sleeeeeeeeep....much more than I already do.

12 more days!....

Monday, July 9, 2007

¨Work¨

Was off to Cara Allegres today for my first day of tutoring with the kids...

Got the times mixed-up and therefore did not show up on time...therefore didn´t tutor today, but got the schedule for this week and next!

Children in the school have now stolen almost Q60 from the volunteers, someway some how out of their bags (mine has since been spared) and into their pockets. The director of the school gave a speech indicating the seriousness of these implications and I hope, for the future of this program that the students will keep their hands in their own bags!

On a positive note, this week seems much more up my alley than organizing arts and crafts hour for the kids. That was VERY VERY difficult, in my opinion, for Corinne and I. But this week, I get to count, repeat, alphabetize, synonym, add and subtract with the students! Today I played baseball, endless soccer, jump rope (my arm is numb), jenga and pick`-up sticks with the kiddos...I´m wiped.

Had an excellent lunch today..I love the vegetables here.

The weather has gotten much weirder for the month of July ---very very hot and then very very cold.

I am reading City of God by Paulo Lins and it is BEAUTIFUL, if you don´t mind endless chapters and dialogue of gun fights, rape and murder. Besides that, he makes Rio de Janiero the next place I want to visit.

I am literally obsessed with the papas fritas at North/South Bookstore. I have them daily at 11 a.m.

I still, as much as I hate to admit it, hate riding microbuses.

I still, as much as I hate to admit it, love the cost of riding microbuses (Q1).

I cannot believe I only have 1 more week here. I realize that too often I have fallen into the habit of appreciating what I have here much too late for my own good!

I miss dearly Rachel, Sarah, Ned and Joaquim. I hope you 4 are doing very very well!

Last night, Corinne and I watched Goodnight and Goodluck. Even though I have seen it many many times before, it was the best with veggie burritos at Blue Angel.

On Sunday, I quenched my cheese craving with an excellent margarhita pizza from Tecun. So far, I´ve had really good pizza and Indian food here.

Today, in Spanish, I had a great conversation with a local about my life here. Not only did I understand everthing she said, but she understood me as well. AWESOME!

I finished another book yesterday, Museum Pieces, and it made me homesick for AZ. Hard to believe though that I´ll be there 2 weeks from today. Where did the summer go?

I am going to hike Volcano Santa Maria on Friday. I am THRILLED! I think I am going to head up to the Fuentes Georginas (natural hotsprings) on Saturday as a reward. I will...as soon as I can...post pictures, but that is becomming increasingly hard with the technology gap here.

My health has returned to somewhat normal....as much as it could be..lol. No more parasites or viruses..I think.




Tomorrow I start teaching....in espanol... Wish me luck...

Friday, July 6, 2007

observations...

The weather is gorgeous...most of the time.

I have seen more Guatemalans with their fly down than I have ever seen persons in my life. Just today: 4

The traffic system is baffling and everyone seems to know it and I STILL can´t figure it out. Between the cobblestone streets and the incessant honking when one is approaching a 4-way crossing, it seems nightmare-ish to me to try and navigate. Corinne wants to rent bikes for a month. I haven´t told her yet that I think that will be suicide.

My host Mom has enterted a phase in her life in which I think it would be good for her to branch out and make new friends. It makes for interesting conversation at the dinner table.

I really like corn products...especially homemade ones here.

I am continuously impressed by Corinne´s willingness and want to help those around her. Inspiring.

In some ways I have come to discover that I will never truly fit into Guatemalan life as well as a Guatemalan could. Something or other about blonde hair and blue eyes....oh and having really fair skin. But! This has presented me with a unique opportunity to shatter any and all stereotypes about blonde women from the States.

Stray dogs are scary...especially when they are chasing you and your American friends in the dark, on the way to the bar.

I am obsessed with the Menonite bakery. This place is only open for 2 days a week: Friday and Tuesday. I am headed there after this post to by a chocolate donut and bread for breakfast this Sunday. Thank you Menonites.

I love love love the time I have to relax.

My roommate back home is truly amazing for not only bringing decorating surprises to our apartment before my return, but for taking care of a devil of a cat who eats through her computer cord every other month or so. Thanks Brit!

I like my new housemate here! Her name is Rachel and she is extremely friendly!

I have an ever-increasing urge to eat hot wings and bbq chicken pizza with goat cheese in the states...watch out ladies....it is out of control.

I miss my parents and my brothers.

I think I want to live abroad very soon after teaching.

Guatemalan children never stop smiling, no matter what age or living condition they have.

My health has improved considerably thanks to the Pina Colada nightmare.

I think I have changed in considerable and unique ways since coming to Guatemala....

I am HAPPY!

Thursday, July 5, 2007

thanks ms. A for making my day!

This is a special shout out to Colleen who posted on my last blog. Before leaving, she informed me of her own experience in Mexico where a parasite attacked her bowels leaving her family with no running water for a day...due to excessive flushing. Thanks lady for your insights.

I went to have my feces examined yesterday. I finally brokedown. It was a complicated process of sticking a plastic cup (thanks Corinne for the purchase) under my butt and waiting. Fun. I dropped off the cup to a clinic, waited 10 minutes and found out that I have an infection in my white blood cells = virus, in which there are no medicines and no antibiotics that can cure me. :(

Went to Marta´s house last night for typical Guatemalan food. Marta is a maestra at Celas Maya (Corinne´s first teacher). It was so good!!!! We had rice and green beans and a sauce of some sort. We´re cooking them Italian next time. mmmm.

The keychains for the kiddos at the school was a BIG hit. We couldn´t even pry them away to have bread and lemondade when the time came. It was nuts! Today: jewelry.

I am now drinking pina colada flavored drink shit that is supposed to help with my virus. It is a delicated powder that swims in my 1.5 ltr. bottle of water. I hate it.

My host mom sort of officially reached annoying (just a bit) this morning when she tried to convince me (and wouldn´t let up) that Coca Cola and water are the best medicines for a virus. She, apprently, swears by it. I wasn´t buying it, nor did I care at 7:25 in the morning.

Corinne and I are considering a cheap bus trip to the beach this Sunday. Stay tuned for details.

I have come to enjoy very much papas fritas in Guatemala. Something about the way they make it is amazing. ...and cheap.

I traded 3 books today for 2: City of God and Just Peachy. One is absolutely absurd fiction and the other is amazing realistic fiction.

I love my Guatemalan...feces-free (whenever that happens)...life.

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

Feliz Cuatro de Julio!

While all in the States are enjoying BBQs and fireworks, I am here, enjoying the sun and more diarrhea! So great! At this point, I don´t know what to say about my body here. I can´t tell if it´s because of yet another diet change in a new household or I have more amebas, but it is attacking and attacking muy fuerte.

Otherwise, the mask-making workshop with the kids went really really well yesterday. They seemed to love the project, although, I find it much much more difficult to wok with these kids than I do my own in the States. In my classroom, there are rules and order, and here, the kids literally grab supplies out of the teachers hands for their own purpose. Admittedly, this annoys the shit out of me! But, I am learning, slowly, to remain calm and let the kids do what they want.

Which, for me, begs a question: These kids, literally, have almost nothing that they possess besides this school and there smiles, therefore, should we allow them to grab, fight, kick and run around crazy because they don´t otherwise have parents, or should we give them structure and rules and planned activities to benefit from? Sometimes, I find that I feel so sorry for them that I let them do whatever they please, no matter if it´s not in the best interest of the group. Is this right? In my opinion...absolutely not, but then again, I am borrowing the classroom and the time with the kids!

Afterwards, Corinne and I had a break at Blue Angel, in which we tried to study, but I wasn´t really into it. After all day of navigating life with Spanish, sometimes it´s nice to sit in silence and read.

Otherwise...life is as it should be an I¨m planning my next week. Not sure, what I´ll do or where I´ll end up, but I like it :)